South of Cebu Dive Log: Diving with Whalesharks in Oslob

I have a never ending affair with whalesharks. I don't know what's up with these gentle giants, but they just simply amaze me.

A few weeks ago, I spent four days out at sea, in Leyte in search of whaleshark, seen none but instead saw pilot whales, dolphins, seahorses, turtlessss....  (read my Leyte Dive Log).  Sometime last year, we also ventured in Pescador Island, Moalboal, Cebu to see thresher sharks feasting on sardines, some divers in the group were too lucky to also chance upon a whaleshark and caught it on video.

This time, news broke amongst the diver community that there have been whaleshark sightings in the south of Cebu.   My dive peers went ahead immediately after our Leyte trip, while I was recuperating from an ear infection.  The following weekend, I had to gather my family and some friends to join me on an early morning two and half hour drive down south of the city.

We left at 4:30 in the morning, passed along General Maxilom Avenue and found party people still up and about while we are awake for a new day.  Two hours later we arrived at our jump off point, just in time for the seven o' clock feeding time.  The owner gave us a short briefing.  We were told that these whalesharks are actually resident whalesharks and the local fishermen have been feeding them for the past two years.  (But the fishermen says it's just for the past 6 months.)  These spotters (local fishermen) look for it and pour food (as bait) so it follows them nearer to the shore.

paddle boats

While us divers, swam out from the shore, non-divers were escorted to take the small banka (paddle boats).  These banka are small and could hardly carry one passenger, no safetly facility like life vest is available.

snorkling with whalesharks

It took longer for me to gear up with shore entry than finding myself in the midst of a baby whaleshark.  Just two minutes into the dive, the whaleshark was just there, unmidful of the banka and people around.  On the surface, the fishermen were feeding it with some shrimps and krill - that kept it on the surface for a long time. 

The local fishermen allowed people to touch it.  Kids aged 5, 7 and 8 were able to pet it from the banka without having to get wet.  I dove around it for an hour, without needing to chase it.  The waters are crystal clear, one can actually admire it from a distance.  In previous days, there are have been sightings of up to three whalesharks, but this time, seas were kinda rough and makes it harder for the spotter to look for them.

feeding them shrimps

There is no existing ordinance to protect these gentle giants in the area.  The locals are neither educated how to protect these.  The locals are definitely not ready to accept the influx of tourists.  I fear that doing this commercially at this time might harm these gentle giants.  Nevertheless, it's a joy to know that they are here.

sideview

Sorry, I'm not comfortable to divulge exactly where this is, not until an ordinance is passed.



from bottom up



Post Trip Accounting:

P100/pax Spotter fee
P100/pax Boat rental
P75/pax Resort fee
or
P2000/2dives Diving fee

As there are no decent place we can purchase food in the area, we brought our own food.

P3800 whole Cang's lechon

Leyte Dive Log

It has been a year since I last had a good dive, that was an out of this world encounter with thresher sharks at Moalboal, Cebu. This time, I got an invite from Aquadive Inc, to go on a south safari to Leyte, in anticipation of diving with whalesharks. With the president's short notice to declare a long holiday, I was lucky to still be able to confirm.

Aboard an outrigger boat, fourteen of us left Mactan, Cebu at 630am. The group was composed of a handful of nationalities, there are Filipinos, German, Australian, French, South American, Indian, American... When breakfast was served, cultural differences was obvious. Filipinos feasted on rice, sardines and chorizo; while the rest opted for sandwiches, carrot sticks and chips and dip.

On a good weather day, the sea was practically calm, it turned a little rough in the open seas around Leyte. Five hours later, we reached the seas of Leyte.

Dive 60, 61 Limasawa Island. 69ft 59mins, 79ft 51mins

rich soft and hard corals

Dive 62, 63 Nahpantaw Island 89ft 42mins, 89ft 49mins



up and down current: turtle overload

Dive 64 Pintuyan Island 71ft 52 mins

spotters, the group had to pay P5,000 but no whaleshark in sight :(

Dive 65 Max climax 79ft 63mins

Dive 66 Binit 89ft 54mins

pretty in pink: nudi



spot the pygmy seahorse

 Dive 67 Padre Burgos Pier 27ft 74mins


night dive: stargazer




night dive: seahorse



lovely calm day with our boat

 Kuting Reef

We checked-in in Kuting Reef for three nights.  Kuting Reef is said to be one of the best in the island.  It is hours away from town.  The ambience was good, the room size was generous, but the walls are thin, I can hear our neighbors talk and the strokes of a massage.  Food is average but takes hours to prepare.  Like anywhere in the province, you ought to order a meal in advance.

For three days, I did eight dives, missed out on three dives.  It was a disappointment not to find any whalesharks, instead, saw pilot whales (sorry no evidence), dolphins, stargazer, seahorse, pygmy seahorse, candy crab, frog fish, pygmy frog fish, turtlesssss, tuna, jacks, bump head parrot fish, porcelain crab, squat shrimps, cuttle fish, barracuda, stargazer...  oh it was not so bad afterall.

Dive Moalboal, Cebu : Sardines and Thresher Sharks Overload

It has been three years since my first and last dive in Moalboal.  It wasn't such a pleasant experience, we didn't see much at that time and it turned out to be 3 of my dive buddies' last dive.

A few weeks ago, it was the talk of the town. There have been consistent sightings of thresher sharks, whale shark and overwhelming school of sardines. Since then there was a renewed interest to visit the place by many including me.

One Saturday, I skipped work, woke up before five in the morning and drove down south west to Moalboal, Cebu fleeting at an average of 80 to 90 kmph.  Thank God for automatic cars, it was my  longest drive ever.  I drove on the first hour through south super highway upto the rotunda of Carcar, stopping for breakfast in Jollibee; they are open as early as six.  My friend took the wheel the next half of the trip.  Turning right on rotunda of Carcar, going up in the long winding road of Barili, crossing the paved road of Ronda and Alcantara (turn left on Ronda Plaza then right when the road splits), and finally reaching Moalboal after two hours.  Make a right after Moalboal Elementary School passing a long small road towards Panagsama Beach, it's about 5 to 10 minute drive from the main road.  There's a big road sign that leads to it, but we missed the turn.  The locals are generally helpful to give directions, so feel free to stop and ask like we did.

We arrived around 730 am, as scheduled but disappointed to know we were not off to sea not until an hour later...  you know how precious sleep is.  We met the rest of the group at Eve's Kiosk Dive Resort who went ahead the day before; they won't settle anything less than a three-day dive.  Eve's probably have the most spacious parking slot in the area which can accommodate about 6 vehicles.  We found a spot in Eve's exactly infront of Nelson's Dive Shop.  First thing we had to do was order lunch at Eve's. In the province, it takes a while to prepare food.  It is always best to order a meal ahead.  Food was just mediocre. 

Dive profile:

• Dive 55. 830am. 77ft 46mins. As usual, I had equalization problems, took me some ten minutes before successfully descending beyond  10 feet sans a dive master eyeing on me.  There were only two DMs, with two newbies and four other dives.  All i could see are the bubbles coming from my dive buddies under me.  Although it made me feel safe knowing they are just there.  After a while, I went off ledge as my sinus were starting to clear; just in time when two thresher sharks appeared before us.  OMG, it was my first time to see them, and seeing two at the same time was heaven sent.  Later into the dive, we met another group giving hand signals, they just saw a whale shark... yes, they did and we missed it by a few minutes.
• Dive 56. 10am. 68ft 52mins.  Second dive, I missed the thresher shark while the rest saw a glimpse of it.  I was too preoccupied gazing how swiftly the university of sardines are going.
• Dive 57 130pm. 88ft 51mins.  After lunch, we went back to sea and the thresher sharks were just feasting on the sardines.  It was a sight to behold.  There were probably more than ten sightings on that dive.  The thresher sharks appearing one at a time whipping the water to stun their prey -  the sardines.  Apparently, they are having lunch!  I was stunned for a second when one was coming my way; we were just a few fin away by the walls of Pescador Island.  My dive buddies who were diving for so many years, have never had that action-packed-close encounter with Thresher Sharks in their whole diving career.  It was totally out of this world.
• Dive 58 330pm 93 ft 44mins.  We can't get enough of it, can we?  Pescador Island again hoping for more action and whale shark sightings this time... but I guess we were asking too much.  Three good dives is enough show, the shark said. ;)

At noon, we met the rest of the group that arrived from the city, our diver friend from Aquadive Inc.  just organized a 5 day dive with 44 divers in total; arriving and leaving on different days.  There's nothing like diving with them, everything is taken cared of.

Finishing off the dive past five in the evening, my friend and I decided to sleep over in Panagsama, Moalboal.  It is quite risky to be driving in the dark on that long winding road back to the city.  Good thing we prepared for that possibility.  Basic room for two with AC and private bath at Eve's costs P1,000.

Upon checking-in, we hurried up to our room, got ready for dinner and totally forgot about the sunset.  The shores of Moalboal has one of the best sunset view in the island.  We went ahead to Marina Restaurant, a few meters away;  it is owned by La Tegola, a famous Italian chain in Cebu.  We were too hungry that we ordered ahead while everyone else was not in yet.  We ordered exactly the same menu we had a few days back in their affiliate Idea Italia but it didn't taste as good.  We hurried back to our hotel room before nine for our scheduled massage.  It was a good thai massage for P400/hour.  Next thing we knew, the sun has risen.

We woke up too early after sleeping too early.  Took our time for breakfast while our dive buddies went for another dive day.  I drove back up to the city for more than two hours, fighting off sleepy eyes, constantly chatting with my friend since there is no radio signal three-fourths of the way.

How to Solve Equalization Problems When Diving

I'm pretty sure I'm not the only one having equalization problem when diving.  I've had 2 barotrauma incidents, good thing my EENT doctor is also a diver so he understands the sport.

Using ProEar diving mask helped a bit.  Let's say if it takes me 20 minutes to descent to 40 feet, using it takes 10-15 minutes to descent.  For me, taking decongestant doesn't help much and risk of reverse block is high with multiple dives.

I read the Diver's Guide to Ears and understood it by heart.

These tips helped me pull it through:

BEFORE THE DIVE:
• Keep eustachian tubes open. Pop ears several hours before diving, equalizing every few minutes above land. (i had to keep it open for a week to make sure)
• A dose of Claricort 250mcg tablet (anti-inflammatory drug) a day, taken an hour before the dive.
• Two sprays on each nostril of Drixine an hour before every dive.
• Avoid dairy products since it increase mucus production.
• Fresh clean air helps control rhinitis or other allergies.

DURING THE DIVE:
• Use descent line to control descent rate.
• Try several equalization techniques.  When blowing through the nose with pinched nose doesn't work, try Toynbee Maneuver. With your nostrils pinched, swallow. (yes it works! previously, i don't pinch while swallowing)
• Most importantly, equalize at 1 foot below surface, then at 4, 6, 8 10 feet. (consciously equalizing at 1 foot below surface did the trick!)

My dive buddies all noticed I descent faster than usual nevertheless, after fourteen dives in four diving days I felt some pain on the outer ear canal.  A dose of claricort for a day or two helped.

These tips helped solve my equalization problem during our diving trip in Palau and Peleliu, Micronesia.  Hope this post will help you too.

Diving in Palau & Peleliu with Maml Divers

I was resigned to the fact that I'd stop diving with recurring ear problem.  But I could not pass the invite to dive in Palau.  Our dive buddy E arranged full board and lodging including transportation and dive trips in behalf of the group with Maml Divers, it was a hassle free trip sans the fraudulent transaction with our  airtickets booked with Space Travel Ent, see my story here.

Limited number of airlines fly to Koror, Republic of Palau.  Continental Airlines is the only airline that flies to Koror from Manila, Philippines.  Taking advantage of monopoly, airfare was pegged at $725.  Starting April 2010,  Pacific Flier now flies from Clark to Koror for $399++.

Preparing for a dive trip

This is my first diving trip outside of the Philippines. Since will be staying in Peleliu, an island off the mainland Koror, Palau I made sure all essentials are brought in. I prepared a checklist to make sure I don't leave anything I need.

CLOTHING/OTHERS:

1. Hat
2. Sunglasses
3. Rain jacket
4. Shirt
5. Shorts
6. Underwear
7. Swimsuit
8. Slippers
9. Rash guard and leggings
10. Sunblock
11. Sarong
12. Towel
13. hair clip/tie
14. contact lens and solution
15. toiletries

DIVING GEAR:

1. BCD
2. fins
3. snorkel
4. mask
5. booties
6. reef hook
7. balloon
8. ting-ting
9. Underwater camera, strobe and charger
10. dive computer
11. UW flashlight and extra batteries
12. shampoo or toothpaste for mask clearing
13. dive bag / dry bag

FIRST AID:

1. Betadine for Coral bruises
2. Spirit of Ammonia for Jellyfish stings
3. Bonamine for travel sickness
4. CERC for anti-vertigo
5. Calmoseptine for rashes
6. Mopidic for itch & jellyfish
7. Decongestant
8. Paracetamol
9. Vitamins
10. Imodium for loose bowel movement

Arriving in Palau & Peleliu

After two and a half flight from Manila, we arrived in Koror airport past two in the morning.  Queue at the immigration is moving slow.  We've learned that the locals are generally laid back ergo, lazy.  They get subsidy from the US government and goods are imported from US free of tax.

We were met at the airport by a Filipino driver.  Reality is, there are now more Filipinos in Palau than the locals sweating for a living.  Our dive master, the cook, the receptionist, the sales lady are all Filipinos.  We felt at home, speaking our own language sans spending US dollars.

We checked-in West Plaza Hotel Malaka for the night.  Left in the morning aboard a 225 suzuki twin engine speedboat, from Maml Dive Shop in Koror heading to Peleliu Island.  Peleliu Island is about 15-30 minutes while Koror, Palau is about an hour away from the dive sites.  It was wise to stay in Peleliu Island for the rest of the diving days.  Peleliu Island is quite remote,  there's no mobile phone roaming signal.  Local sim is available though.

Diving in Palau & Peleliu

We had fourteen dives in four diving days. More popular dive sites are as follows:

• Blue Corner - there's a Blue Corner dive daily,  you can't just get enough of it's beauty.  This is Palau's most famous dive site. Blue Corner has every thing a diver could wish for.  Strong currents whip over the top of the plateau bringing with it a plentiful supply of food.  White Tip and Grey Reef Sharks cruise up and down the currents providing great close ups for divers hooked in along the edge of the wall.  Napolean Wrasse, Bumphead Parrotfish, Giant and Blue Fin Trevally is plentiful.  Out in the blue for a safety stop, is usually accompanied by a large school of Black Fin Barracuda and more sharks.

• German Channel - is famous for Manta Ray. Luck wasn't on our side, we had to go back everyday, not until the fourth day did we spot the Manta Ray and it was just in a blink of eye.  It was totally a waste of time in search for that elusive manta ray.  If you're lucky, you'd see 2-4 of them.  Visibility is bad due to planktons and sandy bottom, where a Manta Ray cleaning station is located. What I liked about German Channel is when the speedboat is cruising through it's channel, it looked like a runaway.
• Big Drop Off is much like Blue Corner.  A vertical wall is covered with soft corals and sea fans, divers can expect a pleasant drift dive at some point. As we hooked on the reef, it was interesting to see fish behavior fining against the current.
• Blue Hole - descend down a hole, on top of the shallow reef, into a huge cavern, 28m / 92ft deep. Natural light filters down from the vertical shaft above, providing excellent silhouette shots.  The electric clam is a resident here.
• Peleliu Express is for those experienced divers looking for some adrenalin rush.  Raging currents with sudden down and up current can be experienced here.  Four of our buddies was up for the challenge for an early morning dive here.  According to them, the bottom wall is generally flat which makes it harder since there's nothing to hold on to. Drift dive with the strong current, stumbling and rambling in between until you find shelter behind a cliff, just make sure you won't miss that otherwise you'll be thrown into the blue.
• Peleliu Corner to Cut is close to Peleliu Express.  The cut is a popular hook in point for divers to stop and watch the action. Unhook and the current takes you up and over the plateau.  After 40 minutes fining against the current, I was low on air and eventually had to share air with our DM.  Sharing air is stressful, I had to bite as hard as I could on the octopus (spare regulator) or risk of losing it with the strong current. ascending with barely 200psi left.
Yellow Wall and Oolong Wall are also must visit, a dive buddy says.

Surface Interval

Aside from diving, I look forward to each surface interval.
• Peleliu South Point - we often have our bento picnic lunch here.
• Ngemelis Island - lovely sand bar.
• Dolphins in the wild - it's my first experience with the dolphins in the wild. They appeared in the middle of the sea, playfully chasing our speedboats
• Jellyfish Lake - it's lovely to swim with stingless jellyfish sans the plankton rich lake.
• Shark point - feeding of sharks is no longer allowed, thus they no longer circle around you while snorkeling; but you can see them at the bottom of the sea while snorkeling.
• Milkyway - very fine white sand perfect for exfoliating
• Giant Clam City

Post trip accounting: $1:P45.6
$725 airfare - Manila - Koror - Manila on Continental airlines
$630 dive fee, inclusive of full board and lodging
$50 sanctuary fees
$40 rock island hopping tour
$50 tip
$35 Koror airport tax
$6 ($1.5 1L bottled water at the store, $1.5 500ml at the restaurant)
$40 2 souvenir shirts
P750 Philippine airport tax
P1200 balloon
P300 reef hook

Using ProEar Diving Mask to Help Equalization Problems

Dive # 31, 32
Tinggo 45min 60"
Talima 49min 80"


I intend to retire from my so called diving career, after at least 3 barotrauma. But I'm giving it another chance after a dive buddy introduced IST ProEar diving mask for P3,000.

This product aims to:


* improve diver comfort and preventing painful ear problems
* improve hearing and sense of direction underwater
* simplify equalization of pressure while diving

My reviews:1st dive: It worked pretty well for the first 10 feet. Thereafter, it took me some fifteen minutes to get to the bottom at forty feet with a painful left ear. (sorry folks, to keep you waiting, again) Thereafter, I was fine.


2nd dive: I tried to descend on my own, it worked pretty well til the bottom - that was 20 feet. As we continue, my right was painful at 50 feet. Very unusual since I normally feel fine at 40 feet onwards.


It wasn't difficult to adjust to it after reading all available materials and understanding the science behind this gear. *geek* It feels like the usual mask except that it's bigger than my TUSA splendive and it tends to slip on to the filtrum which could lead to mouth sore with friction between (inside) the mouth and mouth piece (later did I realize it caused it). It tends to slip since the strap is linear to the earpiece.  It feels safe to hear the boat propeller clearly since sounds are magnified. With the ears covered, I can move faster, looking at any direction without the water coming in my ear (and not worry about stings and bites on the ear). Other than that, I could not safely conclude that it simplified equalization. :(  I'll give it another try soon.


Pretty strong waves today that got two companions sea sick. Luckily, current was not strong. Nevertheless, had good dives with interesting finds diving in Mactan, Cebu:


@Tinggo: yellow frog fish, (a family of) squids, lots of nudis


@Talima: pygmy seahorse, mating eels (aha so that's how they do it! LOL)


PS: no underwater photography after leaving at home my beach bag with everything else in it (except my dive gear). hay, senior moment again.

Here's the ProEar diving mask instructions for use.

• ProEar Mask Function:  In addition to standard to standard dive mask function; the ear cups keep the ears dry, protecting them from the elements of pressure, pollution and cold.  The squeeze we feel during a dive is caused by the imbalance of pressure either side of the ear canal.
  While our ear canal is exposed to water and ambient pressure, our middle ear (which is on the other side of the ear drum and is connected to our nasal cavity by Eustachian tube) is still filled with air and experiences less pressure. The greater external force is able to push our ear drum inward, causing discomfort or pain.
  With a ProEar mask, the ears are completed sealed off from the outside and air, at the same pressure as your nasal cavity, is able to be introduced through the Eqaulisation Tubes into the Ear Covers. Therefore the pressure on both sides of the ear drum becomes equal.
  So as pressure and depth increase, the simple act of breathing air into your Ear Covers can significantly improve your enjoyment of diving.
• Preparation: Just like any other new mask, thoroughly clean both side of the lens with a non-abrasive liquid detergent or toothpaste to remove any residue and then rinse with fresh water.  (Our dive master normally, burn the film on it's first use and putting shampoo to keep them from fogging and rinsing it off just before every use.)
• Wearing the mask: When putting on the mask, it is preferable to hold the ear cups in the palm of each hand and pull slightly apart as you slip the mask over your head.  Make sure that as little hair as possible gets into the ear cup and that it covers the entire ear.
• Checking the seal: After putting on the mask, check the seal by inhaling through the nose.  It should pull in toward your face as a vacuum is formed.  The ear cups should also respond with the vacuum.
• Adjusting the straps:  The strap sits a little lower than normal due it needs to support the ear cups.  Make sure the mask is snug but not too tight.
• Beginning your dive: Descend slowly while very gently blowing air through your nose.  The air will go through the tubes and the one-way valve.  The valve may "whistle" slightly if you blow too hard into the ear cups.  Exhaling through the nose helps equalize the pressure in your mask and ear cupas and creates a "closed circuit" system of ambient air pressure.  Do not blow too hard.  You may also need to pinch your nose shut (as normal) occasionally to help with the equalization. (As for me, I still had to pinch my nose every so often to let it pop.)
• Mask leakage:  If water gets into the ear cups, clear it with head facing forward, press the top of the ear cups against the head and blow air through the nose.
  

Dumaguete dive log

Last weekend, we went on a 4-hour landtrip-barge via the Southern tip of Cebu, Santander for a diving trip to Dumaguete. I was excited to use my newly purchased Aladin Prime dive computer.

Day 1, dive 1 & 2: Dive Dauin [74ft, 66mins] and Masaplod [57ft, 66mins]

Unlike the dive spots I've been to, Dauin is primarily composed of brown sandy bottom. One has to have the spotter's eye to see those small creatures and critters found at the bottom. Masaplod on the other hand, is a small fish sanctuary, where corals grew in the middle of this sandy bottom. There we found this 1 meter-sea turtle, that didn't mind our presence.

L-R: leaffish, mating crabs, frogfish, clownfish, blue-spotted stingray, pufferfish, sea turtle, pipefish, scorpionfish

Day 2, dive 3, 4 & 5: Dive Apo Island [86ft, 71mins; 80ft 60mins] and Ducomi [76ft, 67mins]

Coconut Groove in Apo Island was the experience to beat. The waves on the surface was fierce, thus, we have to descend fast. Luckily, the decongestant worked well this time, I made it down fast. At the bottom, the current was even stronger swishing here and there, thus, we have to hold on to our dear life line (a rope). We almost aborted the dive when there was nothing to hold on to. Thanks to the school of huge mating jacks that appeared below us, we were enticed to descend again. Thanks too to our Dive Masters, who made us feel safe amidst the strong current. The reefs of Apo Island is a vast area filled with corals and schools of fish.

With slightly strong currents and ships docking on the surface, we need our dive light in Ducomi Pier. The pillars of this pier are filled with corals and different interesting creatures. You can actually hear the fishes flap their fins! Lionfishes dominate the area as well.

L-R: commensal shrimp, nudi, us, jacks, black seahorse, me with dive light, lionfish, octopus, eel

Day 3, dive 6: Bahura Resort House Reef [92ft, 63mins]

I skipped the morning dive in Ducomi as I opted to take a good rest and lounge around the resort with a hearty buffet breakfast.

As rain started to pour, waves started to pick-up, we were about to start our dive at the house reef. This reef is deep and with limited visibility, there goes my ears again, it took me some 10 minutes to reach the bottom (entry down 80 feet). As I slowly worked my way down, I got stung around my philtrum (for the 2nd time)! 'Twas worth it though. My first to see spiny lobster, mantis shrimp, boxer shrimps, jaw fish... i can go on and on :D

L-R: jawfish, boxer shrimps, mantis shrimp, spiny lobster, ghost shrimp, bahura resort


Can't wait to dive in Philippine's prime dive spot -Tubbataha, Palawan next year.