South of Cebu Dive Log: Diving with Whalesharks in Oslob

I have a never ending affair with whalesharks. I don't know what's up with these gentle giants, but they just simply amaze me.

A few weeks ago, I spent four days out at sea, in Leyte in search of whaleshark, seen none but instead saw pilot whales, dolphins, seahorses, turtlessss....  (read my Leyte Dive Log).  Sometime last year, we also ventured in Pescador Island, Moalboal, Cebu to see thresher sharks feasting on sardines, some divers in the group were too lucky to also chance upon a whaleshark and caught it on video.

This time, news broke amongst the diver community that there have been whaleshark sightings in the south of Cebu.   My dive peers went ahead immediately after our Leyte trip, while I was recuperating from an ear infection.  The following weekend, I had to gather my family and some friends to join me on an early morning two and half hour drive down south of the city.

We left at 4:30 in the morning, passed along General Maxilom Avenue and found party people still up and about while we are awake for a new day.  Two hours later we arrived at our jump off point, just in time for the seven o' clock feeding time.  The owner gave us a short briefing.  We were told that these whalesharks are actually resident whalesharks and the local fishermen have been feeding them for the past two years.  (But the fishermen says it's just for the past 6 months.)  These spotters (local fishermen) look for it and pour food (as bait) so it follows them nearer to the shore.

paddle boats

While us divers, swam out from the shore, non-divers were escorted to take the small banka (paddle boats).  These banka are small and could hardly carry one passenger, no safetly facility like life vest is available.

snorkling with whalesharks

It took longer for me to gear up with shore entry than finding myself in the midst of a baby whaleshark.  Just two minutes into the dive, the whaleshark was just there, unmidful of the banka and people around.  On the surface, the fishermen were feeding it with some shrimps and krill - that kept it on the surface for a long time. 

The local fishermen allowed people to touch it.  Kids aged 5, 7 and 8 were able to pet it from the banka without having to get wet.  I dove around it for an hour, without needing to chase it.  The waters are crystal clear, one can actually admire it from a distance.  In previous days, there are have been sightings of up to three whalesharks, but this time, seas were kinda rough and makes it harder for the spotter to look for them.

feeding them shrimps

There is no existing ordinance to protect these gentle giants in the area.  The locals are neither educated how to protect these.  The locals are definitely not ready to accept the influx of tourists.  I fear that doing this commercially at this time might harm these gentle giants.  Nevertheless, it's a joy to know that they are here.

sideview

Sorry, I'm not comfortable to divulge exactly where this is, not until an ordinance is passed.



from bottom up



Post Trip Accounting:

P100/pax Spotter fee
P100/pax Boat rental
P75/pax Resort fee
or
P2000/2dives Diving fee

As there are no decent place we can purchase food in the area, we brought our own food.

P3800 whole Cang's lechon

Gilutungan Fish and Olango Bird Sanctuary, Mactan, Cebu

It's not so bad after being grounded in Cebu.  Nine of us was determined to get stoked one Sunday, the wanderlass was determined to go somewhere, anywhere!

With last minute arrangements the night before, we hired an outrigger boat through Aquadive Inc. since their own boat wasn't available, the owner helped us find another one, "Super Lucy", it was big enough to comfortably fit like 30 people.  It was a good deal for P6,500 in comparison to other smaller boats.  I could feel the monsoon wind that day, true enough, the sea was rough but Super Lucy was big enough to brave it and keep us safe.

aboard Super Luci with fashion blogger thirstythought

Gilutongan Fish Sanctuary

Our first stop was Gilutongan Island.  Gilutongan is a fish sanctuary.  Entrance fees is pegged at P100 per person for snorklers and non snorklers.

Olango Island Wildlife Sanctuary

This trip was meant to see the bird sanctuary in Olango Island.  It has been years since I last went there but didn't see anything.  So we thought of revisiting it.  November is said to best time to visit Olango Island Wildlife Sanctuary, and it must be timed at least two hours before high tide.  The bird sanctuary doesn't appear like what I imagined, where birds fly in flocks.  When they get there, the birds are scattered around the vast sanctuary, feeding themselves, making their stop over from the winter months on the other side of the globe.  You would need binoculars to see most of them.

How to get there:

With an outrigger boat, depart the mainland of Mactan Island to Sta. Rosa Port Terminal, Olango Island.  P1 per person terminal fee plus P64 docking fee is charged by the Cebu Port Authority.  From the terminal, take a tricycle to Olango Island Wildlife Sanctuary.  After haggling with opportunist tricycle drivers, we paid P250 for 4 pax, roundtrip.  We know we can haggle it much less than that but my bargaining skills wasn't that good.  The tricycle waited for us, for our return trip.
 
Fees: 

P20 Olango Wildlife Sanctuary Entrance Fee
P10 Birdwatching Guide Fee
P10 Non Professional Camera

telescope is provided by the guide

spot the bird from afar

zoomed in!  check out these endanged chinese egret

fees, fees, fees... i don't mind paying as long as they issue receipts!

Roof Top

If there is one place to enjoy a panoramic view of Cebu's nightscape, it should be a visit to Tops, Busay.  It's a long steep winding road to get there on your private vehicle.  You may charter a taxi cab for about P600 or hire motorbikes at the foot of the hill of Nivel near JY Square.   It can be chilly at night especially during Ber months.  Entrance fee is now pegged at P100 or 50% off if you have a discount card.  Reservation is not required, but if you're a big group that needs much space, contact 4247800 or 3407837 for details.

You need not go too far to enjoy the nightscape, I just discovered two new stops:

Blu Bar & Grill

at Marco Plaza Hotel 

Located at the Penthouse of Marco Plaza Hotel, sitting on Nivel Hills offer a panoramic view of Cebu City and beyond.  Open from Tuesdays to Sundays. Cocktails start 4:30 PM and dinner starts at 6:30 PM and closes by midnight. For reservations and enquiries, please call (6332) 2531111 extension 8355.  Waitresses are impressively well trained. Complimentary cashew nuts were great pica-pica.

Caipiroska, a combination of vodka, lime and sugar 
at blu bar. This is a new discovery!

Highlights

at Harold's Hotel

Located on the roof deck of Harold's Hotel, sits right the very heart of the city.  The glass partition was built from the floor to eye level, thus giving a good panaramic view even while sitting on the couch. I was surprised at see the pretty nightscape even in the middle of city. Nightly music provides a balm to any guest at the end of a long day. Serves Ala cartè menus for cocktails, light snacks and dinner. Open daily from 5:00 PM to12:00 Midnight.  Live music entertainment is available from 9pm-12midnight from Mondays to Saturdays.

Dive Moalboal, Cebu : Sardines and Thresher Sharks Overload

It has been three years since my first and last dive in Moalboal.  It wasn't such a pleasant experience, we didn't see much at that time and it turned out to be 3 of my dive buddies' last dive.

A few weeks ago, it was the talk of the town. There have been consistent sightings of thresher sharks, whale shark and overwhelming school of sardines. Since then there was a renewed interest to visit the place by many including me.

One Saturday, I skipped work, woke up before five in the morning and drove down south west to Moalboal, Cebu fleeting at an average of 80 to 90 kmph.  Thank God for automatic cars, it was my  longest drive ever.  I drove on the first hour through south super highway upto the rotunda of Carcar, stopping for breakfast in Jollibee; they are open as early as six.  My friend took the wheel the next half of the trip.  Turning right on rotunda of Carcar, going up in the long winding road of Barili, crossing the paved road of Ronda and Alcantara (turn left on Ronda Plaza then right when the road splits), and finally reaching Moalboal after two hours.  Make a right after Moalboal Elementary School passing a long small road towards Panagsama Beach, it's about 5 to 10 minute drive from the main road.  There's a big road sign that leads to it, but we missed the turn.  The locals are generally helpful to give directions, so feel free to stop and ask like we did.

We arrived around 730 am, as scheduled but disappointed to know we were not off to sea not until an hour later...  you know how precious sleep is.  We met the rest of the group at Eve's Kiosk Dive Resort who went ahead the day before; they won't settle anything less than a three-day dive.  Eve's probably have the most spacious parking slot in the area which can accommodate about 6 vehicles.  We found a spot in Eve's exactly infront of Nelson's Dive Shop.  First thing we had to do was order lunch at Eve's. In the province, it takes a while to prepare food.  It is always best to order a meal ahead.  Food was just mediocre. 

Dive profile:

• Dive 55. 830am. 77ft 46mins. As usual, I had equalization problems, took me some ten minutes before successfully descending beyond  10 feet sans a dive master eyeing on me.  There were only two DMs, with two newbies and four other dives.  All i could see are the bubbles coming from my dive buddies under me.  Although it made me feel safe knowing they are just there.  After a while, I went off ledge as my sinus were starting to clear; just in time when two thresher sharks appeared before us.  OMG, it was my first time to see them, and seeing two at the same time was heaven sent.  Later into the dive, we met another group giving hand signals, they just saw a whale shark... yes, they did and we missed it by a few minutes.
• Dive 56. 10am. 68ft 52mins.  Second dive, I missed the thresher shark while the rest saw a glimpse of it.  I was too preoccupied gazing how swiftly the university of sardines are going.
• Dive 57 130pm. 88ft 51mins.  After lunch, we went back to sea and the thresher sharks were just feasting on the sardines.  It was a sight to behold.  There were probably more than ten sightings on that dive.  The thresher sharks appearing one at a time whipping the water to stun their prey -  the sardines.  Apparently, they are having lunch!  I was stunned for a second when one was coming my way; we were just a few fin away by the walls of Pescador Island.  My dive buddies who were diving for so many years, have never had that action-packed-close encounter with Thresher Sharks in their whole diving career.  It was totally out of this world.
• Dive 58 330pm 93 ft 44mins.  We can't get enough of it, can we?  Pescador Island again hoping for more action and whale shark sightings this time... but I guess we were asking too much.  Three good dives is enough show, the shark said. ;)

At noon, we met the rest of the group that arrived from the city, our diver friend from Aquadive Inc.  just organized a 5 day dive with 44 divers in total; arriving and leaving on different days.  There's nothing like diving with them, everything is taken cared of.

Finishing off the dive past five in the evening, my friend and I decided to sleep over in Panagsama, Moalboal.  It is quite risky to be driving in the dark on that long winding road back to the city.  Good thing we prepared for that possibility.  Basic room for two with AC and private bath at Eve's costs P1,000.

Upon checking-in, we hurried up to our room, got ready for dinner and totally forgot about the sunset.  The shores of Moalboal has one of the best sunset view in the island.  We went ahead to Marina Restaurant, a few meters away;  it is owned by La Tegola, a famous Italian chain in Cebu.  We were too hungry that we ordered ahead while everyone else was not in yet.  We ordered exactly the same menu we had a few days back in their affiliate Idea Italia but it didn't taste as good.  We hurried back to our hotel room before nine for our scheduled massage.  It was a good thai massage for P400/hour.  Next thing we knew, the sun has risen.

We woke up too early after sleeping too early.  Took our time for breakfast while our dive buddies went for another dive day.  I drove back up to the city for more than two hours, fighting off sleepy eyes, constantly chatting with my friend since there is no radio signal three-fourths of the way.

Talima Adventure Water Park, Mactan Cebu

Warning: the park is temporarily close due to non compliance of necessary permit to operate. (reopened: June 19, 2010)

The Talima Adventure Water Park, a water park at Talima, an island off Mactan, Cebu, opened last May 22, 2010.  It's a waterpark with life size inflatables much like the ones set up in Lago del Rey, Camarines Sur but at a smaller scale.  

Cebuano's really has the knack (including me) for trying new places.  So I pooled by friends and family one Sunday.  Aboard a rented outrigger boat, we left Queensland Wharf and got to Talima 30 minutes later.  Unfortunately, we (along with so many other boats) were denied entry since they were too full.  We ended up island hopping in the waters of Mactan.

After having been to many other places, it makes me appreciate the waters of Mactan.  I'm lucky to have access to white sandy beach 30 minutes from where I live.  The rest of the day was spent jet skiing!  Oh boy, it has been many years since the last one.  When we were younger, we would beg to rent it for just 30 minutes, and share the time among us siblings.  Jet skiing is an expensive sport, renting one costs about P3500/hour.  Thanks to my friend JJ and her brother, who lent us the unlimited use of the jet ski!  We went skiing circling the islands of Mactan together with the kids.  It excited them as well, fortunately, the sea was calm in the morning.  

Later in the afternoon, we went jet skiing again, near the shores of Mactan Island from Punta Engano to Imperial Water Park Resort.  The water was rough! I was sharing the jetski with my friend A.  We were soaked right from the start with big splashes while our seasoned friends were swiftly skiing with the waves.  As we went along, I was curious about a newly built  resort with a row of villas and a bridgeway hanging on an infinity pool.  It's the Crimson Resort and Spa Mactan, the resort component of Seascape Resort Town by Filinvest Development Corporation.  I ought to check this place out next! :)

-o-

How to get here:

Option 1:  Rent a private boat from any resort/outrigger boatman in the shores of Mactan, Island,  a medium sized boat with capacity of 15 pax costs about P2500-3000, while bigger ones with capacity of 30 pax costs P3000-4500; this can be used the whole day.

Option 2: Take a common boat by Islands Banca Cruises at the Hilton Wharf (after Hilton Hotel) for P50/pax one way.  Daily trip schedule (except Wednesdays) is as follows:  8:30 am, 10 am, and 12 noon.  The last returning boat from the park to the  Hilton wharf is at 4 pm.

Option 3:  Take a public outrigger boat for P16 to Sta. Rosa, Olango Wharf at the Hilton Port.  Upon reaching the Olango Wharf, you may need to ride a trike going to Talima Adventure Water Park.

Talima Adventure Water Park Fees:

Don't be deceived by the P100 entrance fees.  On top of the entrance fee, you need to pay the following:

P250 unlimited use of inflatables including life vest
P100 unlimited use of zip n splash
P300 30 mins atv rental

Warning: Timing of the tide is crucial since the inflatables are a few meters from the shore, thus it will be closed during  low tide.  Zip n splash is likewise not allowed during low tide.

Bringing of food is not allowed.  There are a few restaurants and food kiosks like Cheaverz inside the park.  The prices are similar to that in the city (or so they say), but lechon is sold at a hefty price of P600/kilogram.

Michael Jackson's Choreographer and the Cebu Dancing Inmates

This gave me goosebumps!

Philippines's CPDRC "Dancing Inmates" from Cebu Provincial Detention and Rehabilitation Center (CPDRC), a maximum security prison, were treated to a visit by Michael Jacksons long-time choreographer Travis. This video is part of the official Michael Jackson's This is It album. This will have it's debut on CNN tomorrow at 9am!!! Featuring local artist Will Devaughn too (the one carrying the placard).




CPDRC Dancing Inmates first made it's mark on youtube with it's impressive dance giving new hope to these inmates with views over ten million. You can view them on jail warden byronfgarcia's youtube account.

To view public performance, contact the office of the governor at (006332)2539613 or 2541882.

Off The Beaten Path: What's New in Cebu? Parkmall, Edge Coaster, Imperial Palace Resort Waterpark

In my previous post, I highlighted the usual tourist spot in Cebu.

You must know by now, Cebu's two major malls just recently expanded, SM's new wing boast high end shops and Ayala's Terraces highlight's a range of Manila's best restaurants. But what else is new?

Experience something different in PARKMALL.

Located along Ouano Avenue, Mandaue City, (across Convention Center of Cebu - CICC), Parkmall's charming al fresco dining experience in zen garden offers a wide range of restaurants featuring Cebu and Manila's finest restaurants. Mooon Cafe, Chika-an, Pier One, Manila Foodshope, Joven's Grill, KFC, Out of Africa, You Bar, Tandoori, Da Vinci's Pizza, Shabu Way, Mang Inasal, Bo's Coffee, Postrio, Ice Castle, Fine Cuisine, Kk Fine Dining, Saigon Quan, Tsiboom and more.



Indoor, the kids village is Parkmall's pride. Playmaze Fun Hub is any child's dreamland.



My personal haven are the outlets and the micro-retail shops on the second floor, having the best bargain ever for clothes and accessories with exhibitors from Greenhills, St. Francis, export overruns and local entrepreneurs. I was also excited with the opening of Pixel Pro, (by Henry's Camera from Hidalgo, Quiapo), I shall get my new toy soon. Finally, Visayans now have access to good bargains.

For more info, check out
http://parkmallph.blogspot.com/ or http://parkmallph.com

Go over the edge with Sky Experience Adventure at Crown Regency Hotel.

Located right in the heart of uptown Cebu, view the city and conquer your fear of heights on the 38th floor, with a thrilling ride on the Edge Coaster or do the sky walk. Check their website for details.

Get wet and scream at the Imperial Palace Resort Waterpark & Spa.

It's located along the coast of Mactan, Cebu (right beside Hadsan Beach Resort). This is Korean owned and aimed to cater Korean tourists. Rack rate starts with a whooping $250, but it's best to contact them for promo rates. Currently, promo rates start at P8,000++/night, day use is pegged at P1,500 with lunch buffet valid until end of September. We spent a night and I had a blast and service was great! The photos speak for itself, isn't it so inviting?

For inquiries and reservations, contact:
http://www.imperialcebu.com/eng/main.htm
call: 63-32)494-5241 to 44
email: rsvn@ip-cebu.com

Now, you have even more reason to come visit and revisit Cebu! See ya around! :D

Pit Senyor! Sinulog 2009

Cebu's largest annual event, Sinulog Festival is coming up this Sunday. The streets are now packed with cars and people. Good thing I paid homage early on. It is customary for Cebuanos to visit Sr. Sto. Nino's image at the Basilica. Queque extends upto the church grounds, waiting time of an hour is already short.

Sinulog, syagit ug kusog, Pit Senyor! Pit Senyor! tanan magsaulog! is the song you hear everywhere during this time of the year.

Sinulog is celebrated for nine days with two major activities as highlights –a religious procession on Saturday and grand street parade on Sunday. It got its name from a ritual dance in honor of the miraculous image of the Santo Niño.

Schedule of activities for Sinulog 2009:

January 17, 2009 (Saturday)
6am - Fluvial Procession of the Miraculous Image of Sto. Niño together with Our Lady of Guadalupe (Mactan Channel; starting point: Ouano Wharf, Mandaue City)
9am - Re-enactment of the Baptism of Queen Juana and Rajah Humabon (Basilica del Sto. Niño)
2pm - Solemn Procession of the Miraculous Image of Sto. Niño)
6:30pm - Sinulog Festival Queen 2009 (Cebu City Sports Center)
7pm - Street Party (Fuente Osmeña and Plaza Independencia)
8pm - Kasadya Nite Mardi Gras (Ayala Center Cebu hallways; culmination at the South Surface Parking Area)

January 18, 2009 (Sunday) - Sinulog 2009 Grand Parade
9am - Sinulog 2009 Grand Parade Carousel Kick Off
7pm - Grand Fireworks Display (Cebu City Sports Center a.k.a. Abellana and Plaza Independencia)
7:30pm - Concert by Street Party Bands (Fuente Osmeña)
8pm - Grand Fireworks Display sponsored by the Mitsumi Group of Companies (Ayala Football Grounds)

January 19, 2009 (Monday)
1pm - Awarding Ceremonies (Cebu City Sports Center a.k.a. Abellana)

January 31, 2009 (Saturday)
1pm - Awarding Ceremonies for the winners of the Sinulog 2009 Photo Contest and Sinulog 2009 Video Documentary Contest

Hilot

Hilot (/hee-lot/) is an ancient Filipino art of healing, commonly used today to relax stressed muscles, otherwise known as massage.

There used to be Manang Nene, our next door neighbor, to soothe those growing pains, she was very effective in relieving body pains, cough, colds and fever with efficascent oil, when we were younger. I don't know where she is now, for sure she's very old by now. Hers was the authentic Filipino way of hilot.

In recent years, massage parlors have been sprouting everywhere in the city. I certainly welcome this development, making it more accessible and affordable. Years back, when Manang Nene wasn't available, I had to go to a hotel for a massage. Massage parlors also turned wholesome although there are still a few that offers that extra service (a friend's experience may warrant a completely different post.)

The most luxurious massage I experienced was probably at San Benito Farm in Batangas. Four consecutive days of different types of massage including one under the stars was superb.

I like best the routine of a Thai massage. It is a dry massage that involves stretching and deep massage, perfect for my sore musscles. For only P300, I enjoy an hour and a half of relaxing massage at Thewi Thai Massage. Theirs is very similar to the Thai Massage I had in Bangkok.

The stone massage is my second best routine. The warm stone rubbed and laid on the skin relaxes the muscles. Although I'm sometimes bothered by balancing the stones on my back which should not be the case. I had this at Medah Spa for P800 and it's low-end counterpart Touch 'n Heal for P400 or less, the former employs Physical Therapists.

Today, instead of going to the gym, I went to Holiday Gym and Spa for an oil massage to soothe my weary bones and spirit and my ankle that I sprained earlier today during a badminton tournament (injured myself again!). Luckily they had a promo, I paid P300 for an hour's massage; which normally costs P400-700 an hour.

When I have injury, I normally go to San Vicente Sotto Hospital's Rehab Center, there's a rehab nurse that is very good with Manipulative Therapy including joint manipulation (associated with the production of an audible 'clicking' or 'popping' sound).

More than the usual sights and food trip, having a good massage is one that you must experience when visiting Cebu.

Experience first class amenities at Cebu's most luxurious spa in Chi Spa Village in Shangri-La's Mactan Resort. A day spa costs around P5,000 to P20,000, in spite of being pricey, they get fully booked. Priority is given to inhouse guests, call(63 32) 231 0288 loc 68304 to 68307 to reserve. They open between 10 am to 10 pm.

In the city, more popular spa with sauna, with price range of P400 - P800/hour:

Holiday Spa
Molave Street (Off Escario), Camputhaw, Cebu City
(63 32) 231-0408

Holiday Gym and Spa
Banilad Road
(63 32) 234-4791

Sawadee Spa
2/F MD Bldg, Banilad, Cebu (Between Cebu Country Club and Crossroads)
(63 32) 234-4171

The Spa at Cebu
with indoor and outdoor spa
Maria Luisa Road, Banilad
(63 32) 412-0888 & 345-1777

Meddah
Crossroads, Banilad
(63 32) 234-2080 & 234-2083

Affordable massage parlors without sauna, with price range P180-250/hour:

Thewi Thai Massage
3 Llorente St., Capitol Site
across Palladium Suites
(63 32) 412 5278

Tonton Thai Massage
Doña Luisa Bldg., Fuente Osmeña (with branches in Mactan and Mandaue)
253-9639

Nuat Thai Massage

Body and Sole
(i do not recommend this since I had a bad experience with peeping masseurs)

Touch and Heal

I've been to all these except for two, Thewi Thai Massage is my personal favorite.

Hanging Rice

Puso or hanging rice or rice pouch is rice wrapped in shaped coconut leaves. Making it "portable", not to mention, biodegradable. If you're interested to learn how to make puso, check this out. It comes in different shapes and sizes.

I grew up in a household that eats puso when we go for a picnic at the beach in Mactan, Cebu. Everyday, on my way to work, I pass by a neighborhood that cooks puso in Barangay Day-as, along P. del Rosario Extension, Cebu City. It's best paired with lechon (roast pig) and street food like grilled chicken, pork or seafood and ngohiong (five-spiced fried lumpia). Many argue that it is not uniquely Cebuano. I didn't realize that it's not readily available in other parts of the country, not until a few years back, when my relatives have to order from here and have it shipped to Manila.

Puso sells between P2 to P5, depending on its size and the kind (quality) of rice used. The price hasn't gone up significantly. A restaurateur once commented that it's more viable to serve (simply) rice rather than puso. A cup of cooked rice can be priced P10 to P30 but never with puso.

During my frequent diving trips in Mactan, Cebu last year, I've been in search for the best tasting puso but I can't find any. During my trip to Kawasan Falls, I proudly introduced the puso to my friends from Manila which we bought at Carcar Market, unfortunately, it was too dry and hard, I'm sure my guests weren't happy about it. In my occasional indulgence of lechon at the mall's food court, I was disappointed with CNT Lechon's puso. 'twas dry, it can choke (an exaggeration maybe).


In my most recent island hopping trip in Mactan, my grand aunt brought puso. I haven't had that good tasting puso for a long time. She got it from Willer's Store. I can't help but ask for directions. Willer's Store is a small eatery that sells bar-b-cue, in one side street along Gorordo Avenue, Lahug (between JY Square & Sinangag Express). Puso is sold at P5, with generous serving size, they use ganador rice which explains why their puso tastes good and soft. They can be reached at +639163334779 or (032)4147145. They are open only at night, so you need to call if you need it during the day. I gladly volunteered to bring puso in our recent potluck dinner, I was sure a good puso was the perfect match for our tasty lechon and ngohiong. :D

(credits to the owner of these pics.)

Where to Buy the Best Lechon de Cebu?

Lechón (Tagalog: Litson and Cebuano: Inasal) is the Spanish word for suckling pig. In the Philippines, it connotes a whole roasted pig, lechón baboy. Chicken and beef are also popular. The process of lechón involves the whole pig/piglet, chicken, or cattle/calf being slowly roasted over charcoal.

The pig had always been the center of communal feasts in pre-Hispanic Philippines, and "Lechon" is the normal manner it is prepared.


Undeniably, Cebu's Lechon is the best in the country. It is tasty as it is, there's no need for any savory dip to go with it. Ask for Mang Tomas (liver sauce) and Cebuano's will stare at you and laugh.

Cebu's lechon baboy is whole black native (free range) pig roasted over charcoal, skewed in bamboo, stuffed with herbs and spices like lemongrass locally known as "tanglad", salt (injected into the meat), pepper corn and more, then baste with either milk or soda or coconut water to keep the skin crispy.


I once saw how it is prepared, it's never a pleasant sight. Hot water is poured onto live pig to shed its hair and the rest is history. I've entered the roasting station of CNT Lechon, it is impressive to see several lines of mechanical rotisserie. That should make the cooking even, not to mention efficient.

We normally forewarn foreign guests, other nationalities especially from the west, find it barbaric to see a whole pig served on the table. But Chinese and Filipinos just love EVERY part of it, right? I feast on the belly and the skin, most on the ribs, some even rave about the tail, the tongue, the ears, the dinuguan (pork blood stew with internal organs), and the brain!

My previous post about Cebu drawn more than the usual readers, googling for information and contact numbers for Cebu's Lechon houses, there are hundreds of lechon houses in Cebu but these are the more popular ones:
NOTE: To contact via telephone, use COUNTRY CODE 063, AREA CODE 032

Cang's Lechon
Sanson Road, Lahug # 2328899
- the original Cang's Lechon, with crispy skin and tender meat, the fat looks like it's trimmed off, it's very tender that the vertebra easily collapse.

Cary Cang's Lechon (Edna Cang)
Sanson Road, Lahug # 2358886; +639276441923
-(similar to Cang's Lechon, now operating independently) my family's personal favorite. Aside from the usual lechon, a whole chicken (add P150 each) or rice can be stuffed inside. Imagine chicken or rice that tastes exactly like lechon.

Alejo's Lechon
Labangon # 2618575

Lighthouse Restaurant
Gen. Maxilon Ave # 2332383
-famous for Lechon de Leche, a few days old piglet, so tender, they use plates to slice it. For dine-in, you can order whole or smaller portions.

CNT Lechon
Archbishop Reyes Ave # 2326146
V. Rama # 2544249; 2546641
Juan Luna Ext Ave # 2335339
(with outlets in selected malls)
-famous for their retail outlet that sells lechon per kilo*, they can pack them in a box ready for cargo. Also available in Las Vegas, USA:
1203 E Charleston Blvd, Las Vegas, USA # 702-270-2500


Se Ben's Authentic Cebu Lechon
SaveMore Supermarket, Parkmall branch
Reclamation road, Cebu City
# 4129799; +639173266999; +63922-8236168; benslechon@gmail.com
-promising new addition to the lechon industry

Rico's Lechon
Talamban, (Enrico Dionson, owner) # 3440119
-rumored for being former President Erap's source of lechon

Zubuchon (as endorsed by Anthony Bourdain)
(Edrid or Beverly) # 2365264 (M-F 9am-4pm)
Sunday Market at Banilad Town Center, Sundays, 10am-1pm


- but frankly, it doesn't come close to Cebu's best lechon.  You might just wanna try it simply because it was endorsed by travel channel Anthony Bourdain's blog.

Lechoncebu.com
www.lechoncebu.com
- offers the convenience of online orders, recommended by a few bloggers who are non-Cebuanos. I haven't tried this, but the published rates are quite expensive.

Carcar Town Market- famous for having lechon juice, a seasoned clear (salty) soup.

Lorenzo's Lechon Baka
# 4162849
- specialize in roast beef/calf with sweet brown sauce. My birthday party isn't complete without them roasting a leg for my guests. :D They also serve roast turkey and goat.

The price of Lechon Baboy has increased about P300 for whole and P50/kg compared to last year. During peak season, price increase about P200-500 or they serve a smaller sized lechon. Peak season is from December, extending upto January (for Sinulog). Normal price range now should be:
P300 per kilo
P2800 good for 20-25 (whole)
P3200 good for 25-30 (whole)

Updated price for 2010:
P360 per kilo
P3500 good for 20-25 (whole) about 8-10 kilos
P4000 good for 25-30 (whole) about 10-12 kilos

Airport to airport airfreight from Cebu to Manila costs about P500, the seller usually charge additional P100 for packaging. Including freight, it is actually cheaper to buy from Cebu than in Manila.

*lechon sold per kilo tends to use bigger and older pigs, the meat may not be as tender and the skin is thicker which tends to be harder even crispy. So I still prefer to order in whole, the younger/smaller the better. Don't worry about left overs, stewed (paksiw) or sauteed, they are still worth the added cholesterol. :D Our household cook has a superb recipe, I'll try it out soon and post the receipe here.

Ever wondered how to keep the skin crispy?
- while it's steaming hot, keep it loosely covered. Don't keep it too long in the (car) trunk either. The steam tends to soften the skin.
- while waiting to be served in an airconditioned room or windy area, keep it covered.
- reheat leftover skin (if any!) in pressure cooker or toaster on high heat.

A celebration isn't complete without lechon, Christmas season ('Ber months) is coming up, I'm so eager to feast on more lechon again with hanging rice "puso" to match it.

Wow Cebu - There's no place like home.

It is such a shame to be a stranger to your own hometown, right? It was a pleasure being a host to visiting friends from Manila and Bacolod, because I got the chance to explore and tour Cebu City and its neighboring towns. So I thought I'd compile the interesting places in my hometown that I myself have set foot on.

SINULOG! Every third Sunday of January, Cebuanos celebrate the feast of Sr. Sto. Nino with a mardi gras. The street party is flocked by locals and tourists and it's the most feastive season in the island.


BASILICA MINORE DEL SANTO NIñO is the country's oldest church and the only basilica in the Far East. It contains the image of the Holy Child given by Magellan to Rajah Humabon's wife. Look up and you'll find fine artwork on the ceiling. (A block away is Cathedral Church.) Don't forget to say your prayers, miracles do happen!

Right next to the Basilica is MAGELLAN'S CROSS, an octagonal shrine with a red-tiled roof that have paintings depicting the events of Magellan's visit on the ceiling. The original cross in encased with a wooden cross to preserve it.


In the middle of downtown Cebu, next to the Pari-an Fire Station, stands a bronze sculpture showcasing the "HERITAGE OF CEBU", commemorating the historic events that unfolded since the arrival of Spanish conquistadors and the battle that ensued between Ferdinand Magellan and Lapu-Lapu. I finally came up close to this masterpiece, I pass by it everyday on my way to work.

FORT SAN PEDRO, the smallest and oldest Spanish fort in the country that served as core of the first Spanish settlement in the Philippines. (Feel free to request the guard on duty to take your pics, he'll gladly take your photos and direct your pose!) Adjacent to the fort is a public park, Plaza Independencia (Freedom Square).

JUMALON BUTTERFLY SANCTUARY AND ART GALLERY the home of the late Prof. Julian Jumalon has the country's oldest butterfly collection from around the world and a display of his lepido mosaic art collection, so called because it utilizes butterfly wings as its medium.



TOP, high on top of cool Busay hills offering breathtaking view of Metro Cebu and the islands of Mactan and Olango. Best to visit on a clear night when the fog won't block the view. Entrance fee is pegged at P100, or find a local who has a discount card and pay half the price (they give that out for free on your first visit, but you have to ask for it)!


MACTAN ISLAND, where the airport is located, is a coral island famous for scuba diving where beach resorts of international standards are located. Go island hopping in pump boats and take along Cebu's specialty -lechon baboy (roast pig) and puso (hanging rice) for a hearty lunch at sea.





Two and a half hour drive from the city via the South Reclamation Project and detour at Carcar Market, takes you to MOALBOAL. Panagsama Beach, Moalboal has a strip of dive shops and restaurants, the tip off point to diver's haven like Pescador Island. A long stretch of white sand and live corals at White Beach is an option for non-divers.


Further drive along the coastline takes you to the next town, BADIAN. Visit Kawasan Falls, Badian for a refreshing bath in this ice cold three tiered cascade of crystal clear mountain springs. Rent a raft for P300 and go under the falls for a HARD massage. U can also take a plunge off the cliff next to the falls as high as 50 feet or trek up the mountain to the source.


Then there's also Taoist Temple, Bantayan Island, Balamban, Tuburan, Pinamungahan and wherever you go around the island, there's always good food, food and food!

I've been to more places than I thought! I'm a stranger no more to my own hometown Cebu. :D the adventure continues... I'm proud to be a Cebuano, there's no place like home.

PS. am lovin' my sony t-100 with underwater casing! ;)

God the painter

These are photos of God's artwork taken from butterfly wings that took at least fifteen years to compile, the so called Butterfly Alphabet. Amazing!



In a recent tour around Cebu, we visited the Jumalon Butterfly Sanctuary and Art Gallery*. This is the home of the late Prof. Julian Jumalon, an artist having the country's oldest butterfly collection. The place isn't fancy and only a few live species are found in the sanctuary (should I say in the garden), but the glass encased collection are beautiful enough to be appreciated.

Apart from his collection, he was known as an artist for his lepido mosaic art work; he used pieces of butterfly wings as its medium.


For a P50 guided tour fee, we were met by a man in a wheelchair - paralyzed waist down; he happens to be the son the late artist. He started out saying "Take a stool for an examination." so I blurted "Now?" I thought, why in the world do they need my stool to see their butterfly collection?! and besides I'm not ready to do my thing! Only to find out he was pointing to those monoblock stool on the side implying that he was about to start his lecture... duh, I can't stop laughing at myself, wahahaha!!!

*located at 20-D Macopa St., Basak, Pardo, Cebu City, Philippines
Jumalon Residence, Tel. No. (63-32) 2616884